I am 185lbs, 5"10 . My waist is a measured 34.5" , I bought a tagged 32X34 - I could get into the jeans initially because the true-measured waist of the jeans was 33". They stretched out about 1.5" so now they're comfy. I have had mine for 29 days so far. The difference between broken twill and Japan is the fabric and how it fades out. Broken Twill is italian denim and its 'broken' and if you look closely the denim is sorta zig zagging all over. The fading difference : Japan's will fade faster and offer a regular/typical blue'ish fade. Broken twill takes a bit longer (IMO it is stronger fabric due to the broken twill) to fade but will offer dark blue gun metal/ fades. But in my opinion the broken twill fade is superior. Here is a great example http://denim.blogg.se/2008/december/slim-jim-dry-1ar.htmlcomment
Very fine pair of jeans , i love nudie is because of their un wash raw denim and prime fit cutting which makes you looks perfect! The color of the stitching is similar to dry japan , has bright contrast against the denim color. selvage jeans is one of the best option for denim lover!